It was a typical day in the Llanberis pass. Low cloud and drizzle. The rock was greasy, and everything else was wet. Heavy rainfall had turned the gullies into cascading torrents.

I stood by the car waiting for my partner Vince to change. I glanced around the sides of the pass hoping to spot Dinas Cromlech and the infamous Cenotaph corner. The site of our climb that day.

The plan was to climb Spiral Stairs; a fun, difficult three star route that begins under the sloping ledge of Cenotaph.

We started along the road chatting and squeezing into the slate walls to avoid oncoming cars. The cyclists were out, and a line of bored traffic snaked behind them.

We reached the Cromlech boulders and swung off the road. Boulderers in beanies and covered in chalk greeted us with their backs, staring up at their friend on the latest problem.

Vince made a rude joke and we started the slog up the scree slopes to Cenotaph corner.

As we scrambled up, I began scanning for the start of our climb.

A flash of movement caught my eye and I saw a cartwheeling figure tumble down the lower face to disappear from sight. A puff of chalk powder marked his position. I did a double take and grabbed Vince’s arm.

“Shit, I think someone’s just fallen Vin.”

As soon as the words left my mouth, we heard the frantic cry of whistles. Another figure appeared waving their arms.

We set off at a pace, grunting under our heavy packs and slipping in the loose moraine.

As Vinnie moved ahead I dialled the emergency services and began relaying what had happened.

A reassuring voice, plugged me for information.

“What did you see? Who is injured? What is the nature of their injuries? Can you see the party now? How many people are there?”

I repeated what I had seen, and promised to call back with the incident reference number when I was at the site with an update.

Ten minutes later we reached the scene.

Scattered gear marked the climber’s fall, a nut here, a cam there. Two ropes described his descent and we traced them down to a woman knelt with a man’s head in her lap. Her hands held gently to his face. It didn’t look good. He was conscious at least; groaning and squirming.

Above us, an older man visibly distressed was trying to untie himself from the ropes.

“What happened” Vince asked.

He filled us in.

The injured man was a local guide. Liz and Simon had joined him for a day’s cragging in the valley. Whilst scrambling up a steep slab to the start of their climb he had slipped on greasy rock and came down head over heals, his momentum carrying him thirty metres down the face.

Moving down to the injured man and assessing his injuries I realised my first aid kit wouldn’t be much use for such serious head trauma and internal injuries.

Whilst Liz continued to reassuringly speak to the guide I covered him with my available warm layers.

As I knelt besides the injured guide holding his hand, Liz and I shared a strained glance and the thoughts we both had. My phone sang, breaking the moment and I moved higher to gain signal and update Mountain Rescue.

Shortly the whump, whump, whump of a chopper announced its arrival. Her Majesty’s Coastguard were here. The side hatch was open and a man learnt out.

The pilot executed a sharp turn and came to hover beneath us. The backdraft was insane.

An orange figure dropped quickly from the flying machine, unclipped the winch, and came up to us. Deployment made, the helicopter tipped its nose and disappeared into the cloud.

The medic arrived, made an evaluation and asked us begin gathering any loose gear. This would be a heli evac.

As the medic went to work, several friends also climbing in the valley had appeared drawn by the commotion, and assisted us clearing the scene.

Down in the valley now, two Mountain Rescue 4x4s and an ambulance idled on the road. Llanberis Rescue appeared shortly after having approached on foot.

Seeing the team in their helmets, I put my own on, guilty of how forgetful I had been.

The helicopter made a second pass dropping a stretcher and equipment to the waiting ground crew.

The team set to work prepping the casualty for evac and organising the scene. It was rather busy now, so we moved higher up the pass to make room.

I was called down to help lift the casualty on to the stretcher. This was inflated to reduce the casualty’s movement, and prevent any further injuries.

The helicopter returned one last time, backdraft washing over us. We huddled together, our heads bowed in reverence as the casualty and medic were brought aboard.

There was a sober atmosphere among us as we descended a steep goat track back to the road. Many of the rescue team knew the injured guide.

I turned inward, replaying the scene over and over. Reflecting on what I had learnt that morning.

Mel watches on as equipment is lowered to the ground emergency services.

What I learnt

Below, are the thirteen lessons I learnt from that experience. They are in no particular order, and I am sure there are many other valuable things I have not covered. Let me know in the comments below your thoughts on dealing with such an incident.

Lesson #1 Know your location

On the phone that day, I struggled to provide information to the emergency services.

I was just out to climb and enjoy the scenery. I didn’t worry about logistics.

It often falls to the more experienced climber in a party to plan a day’s activities.

I believe now, all members no matter their experience, should be briefed on the following before heading out:

Name of crag and planned climbs
The grid reference
Access points to the crag
Potential hazards
When to be expected back by

That way, if anything happens, all parties have the knowledge to act.

If you’re unfamiliar with an area, ask other climbers for beta on conditions.

The BMC RAD app is another useful source of crag information.

Lesson #2 How to Assess an Incident Scene

As I approached the incident scene I did a quick check for rock fall and there was no immediate danger to my partner and I.

There are also some other things to consider:

Check for hazards to yourself, others and the casualty.
Approach the casualty cautiously.
Give first aid as appropriate.
If injuries are minor and help is to hand it maybe be possible to assist the injured party back to the road.
If assistance from Mountain Rescue is required, jump to the lesson below.
Raise the alarm. By phone, or send a runner.
If someone needs to go for help consider where the nearest point of help is, who should go, and who should stay with the casualty if they cannot be left alone.

Lesson #3 How to Call in an Accident

Before I called the emergency services there were several pieces of information I could have provided to help the response.

When we call the Emergency Services, the call handler at the end of the line will be trained to prompt you for the information they require.

The recording and reporting of information is of critical importance in the effective management of an incident and any casualties involved.

Some simple mnemonics can focus your attention on the most important factors which helps ensure the most relevant information is communicated quickly and clearly.

I now use ETHANE, a military protocol, to remember, or seek out, specific information before making a call.

Exact Location: In a remote setting, an 8 figure grid reference, or latitude & longitude.

Type of Incident: rockfall, fallen climber, etc. Describe what happened.

Hazards: Both current and potential; terrain, debris, exposure, weather etc.

Access: Best route to the scene following - or avoiding - particular features.

Number of Casualties: Describe the nature of the injuries. Note their name, sex and age.

Emergency Services: Required, or already present.

I also give the number I call from, and of another in my party should the emergency services need to make contact.

Lesson #4 Put Your Tin on

To be the most help in an incident, you have to be able to look after yourself.

Upon reaching the incident I should have immediately put my helmet on. There is a high chance of loose debris hitting your noggin when moving under a crag.

Don’t add yourself to the casualty list.

It can also help mountain rescue organise a scene, and identify you when names aren’t apparent.

“Orange helmet, I need you to clear this loose kit for heli evac.”
“Green helmet, I need you to help us lift him onto the stretcher.”

Lesson #5 Your First Aid Kit Can’t do Squat

I learnt a hard lesson up on that mountain. That nothing in my medical kit could help with serious injuries.

As climbers, we often strip down our first aid kits to be as light as possible, with only a handful of items to deal with minor injuries like blisters and cuts.

Such a kit could include:

Gauze pads or rolls/Sterile dressings.
Medical tape/Duct tape.
Adhesive bandages.
Butterfly bandages.
Triangular bandages.
Disinfecting ointment/Neosporin.
Over-the-counter pain medication /Ibuprofen.

A useful addition I now carry is a pair of surgical gloves for handling casualties.

Tailor your kit appropriately for the day you have planned.

Lesson #6 Casualty Care

If the casualty’s injuries are serious there isn’t going to be much you can do unless a trained professional.

If there is no further immediate danger and help is on the way, what you can do is monitor the casualty’s condition and provide shelter from any elements. Keep them warm, and talk reassuringly to them.

I keep a small space blanket and survival bag in my pack at all times.

Lesson #7 Witness Care

The emotional needs of a group or individual are perhaps less obvious and defined than a physical injury, but as important.

Be conscious of others who may have witnessed the incident. People can react very strangely under stressful situations and the psychological impact can be life changing. One of the injured’s clients was visibly, and understandably upset. Vince did a great job comforting him.

Mountain Rescue can provide sources for emotional support after an incident.

Lesson #8 Learn some basic first aid

After attending this incident I realised how essential it was to have some basic medical training when out in the mountains.

You may not be able to completely treat a casualty, but any mitigation of injuries could make the difference.

A standard first aid course is a great way to start, and courses tailored to the outdoors can include additional problem solving of exposure to the elements and remoteness.

Lesson #9 Always ensure your phone is fully charged

Unfortunately I’ve been out on the hill several times, and had my phone die from poor planning or the cold. Taking photos and videos can quickly drain the battery. Thankfully I had been in a hut the previous night and was fully charged when the incident occurred.

I now carry a small USB battery and charging cable in my pack as a backup.

To improve your chances of being able to use a mobile phone in the mountains:

Keep it warm, dry and protected
Carry it switched off
Once you have established a signal stand still
There may be an improved signal higher up

Be aware if calling from a mobile. Some emergency calls might result in a delay; a police operator may take the call in another part of the country.

When connected to the police control room, check it is the right one. If not, ask to be transferred to the local regional police division.

If you cannot make a call, you can contact the 999 emergency SMS services by text from your mobile phone. You do need to register for the service first.

Emergency wording I keep on my phone is:

I need Police/Ambulance/Coastguard/Mountain Rescue. X has happened. X people are injured. Location. My name is Alexander Metcalfe. My number is: 07522 123 456.

Example:

MountainRescue. Crag fast climbers. 1 seriously injured. OS Gris ref NT 12345 67890. Alex Metcalfe 07522 525 689.

Lesson #10 Dealing with Helicopters

Helicopters are extremely noisy, and create an enormous amount of downdraft so it is important to secure all loose clothing and equipment.

Bivvy bags blowing around as an example can make a pilot very twitchy and be more likely to pull away from an incident until they consider the area safe.

Never approach a helicopter unless specifically indicated by a member of the crew. This should be in full view of the pilot.

To attract the attention of a chopper raise both arms to create a V. One arm raised and one down by your side will indicate “no help required.”

Lesson #11 Ditch Your Pack?

A controversial one.

Ditch your pack to reach the accident site quicker, or take it with you in case you need the gear?

I felt that day if I had ditched my pack and moved ahead of my partner who kept his I could have reached the incident quicker and relayed this information back to Mountain Rescue.

Call it as you go.